Wave Music Home
ReleasesCommunityYour OrderWave Music
ArtistsEventsDJ MixesShop

Wave Music Home


Home
About Us
Labels
Distributed Labels
Links




Search


Adv. Search



Subscribe


Email






Go Back   Wave Music Community Board > Tech Talk for Gearheads

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-09-2015, 05:10 PM
Reticuli Reticuli is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 931
Mixer power flickering, one capacitor swollen, replace all?

One of my digital mixer's power is flickering. The wall wart is a known properly working unit, so that's not it. I opened the unit up and one of the power capacitors is swollen on top; it's 16v 2200uf. There are also a couple of 35v 1000uf ones adjacent to it that look fine. Should I replace all of them or just the 16v one? FYI, I've never done this before.
__________________
The term "necroposting" was invented by a person with no social memory beyond a year. People with a similar hangup are those o.k. with the internet being transient vapor.

http://www.openfuelstandard.org/2011...pen-wager.html
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-09-2015, 07:11 PM
Richi Richi is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 580
Have you measured the voltage? Is it a single supply or dual?

If the capacitor is no longer passing voltage then i would replace all 2200uf in the unit and then measure again. Measuring is the reference here, as you need to know where the voltage stops, so measure first with DMM before replacing anything.

Also, pay proper attention to the polarity of the Electro's when fitting new ones.

What voltage is the wall wart?

Last edited by Richi : 12-09-2015 at 07:54 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-09-2015, 08:50 PM
Reticuli Reticuli is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 931
I have no idea about single or dual. I am not at all trained in electronics.

Wall wart is 9v 1.5a AC.

There is only one 2200uf cap in there and then a few of the 1000uf ones.

I noticed on another website they were talking about polarity of the caps, too, so if I do this I'll remember that.

I do have a meter, but is it safe to have the input/output/PS circuit board out all by itself, powered, without any of the other ribbons and circuit boards connected? The top big board is the one with all the DSP and faders, then there's an effects thing on the front, the mic, and the headphone section. All that would be disconnected. Obviously I wouldn't touch any of the leads with bare hands, but I also don't want other parts to go bad because something isn't connected. I had a powered speaker's amp go out just because I had the front woofer grill off that has a blinking LED after checking the driver out. Turned it on without putting the grill on, had the power LED set to blink on the back of the speaker, and zap! Everyone tells me that'll be more expensive to repair than just to replace.
__________________
The term "necroposting" was invented by a person with no social memory beyond a year. People with a similar hangup are those o.k. with the internet being transient vapor.

http://www.openfuelstandard.org/2011...pen-wager.html
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-10-2015, 06:11 AM
Richi Richi is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 580
In terms of Electrolytic polarity, take a picture of your current one so you know which orientation its in. All Polarized electros have markings on the cap, the negative side will have a negative symbols down one side as per this image. The positive side always has the longer leg. So, make sure you match this when replacing the 2200uf.



Pre-amp are usually fine to work on with out other boards being connected.

Its hard to say where to measure the voltage without seeing the PSU. I would start with connecting the negative(COM) on your DMM to the earth post on the mixer. Then set the voltage to DC on the DMM and measure on the positive terminal of your 2200uf Cap(opposite side to negative markings) with the other probe on your DMM.

Below is a basic single PSU, you should find some diodes before your 2200uf CAP, you will need to get to the underside of the PCB to measure. Let us know what your reading is.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-11-2015, 12:01 AM
Reticuli Reticuli is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 931
Shows 5V.



__________________
The term "necroposting" was invented by a person with no social memory beyond a year. People with a similar hangup are those o.k. with the internet being transient vapor.

http://www.openfuelstandard.org/2011...pen-wager.html

Last edited by Reticuli : 12-11-2015 at 12:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-11-2015, 01:33 AM
Richi Richi is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 580
It's hard to read the picture, though it looks like on the bottom picture the 2 x voltage regulators are 7805a, which are 5v regulators. Measure the voltage on the 3rd leg, which is the leg by the letter "a" after 7805. If that measures 5v constantly then your problem is likely further down or you could have a dry solder joint or that cap is intermittent shorting.

The regulators are the two IC's bolted to the PCB, three legs each, measure both of them.

Last edited by Richi : 12-11-2015 at 01:36 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-17-2015, 03:28 AM
Reticuli Reticuli is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 931
They were reading 3.8ish volts each. Replaced the cap. Now 5V and working correctly. Thanks!

Word of advice, though, don't use Deoxit DFG-213 grease for Type-D faders. I am going to have to soak these in acetone or 97% alcohol to get it out. I took all the faders apart, cleaned them, and figured it wouldn't hurt to add the grease. Big mistake. It worked fine on the little mini headphone crossfader, but not on the other three. I suppose the headphone one is probably analog.
__________________
The term "necroposting" was invented by a person with no social memory beyond a year. People with a similar hangup are those o.k. with the internet being transient vapor.

http://www.openfuelstandard.org/2011...pen-wager.html
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-17-2015, 07:20 PM
Richi Richi is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 580
Good to hear it's now fixed.

Yeah grease and faders don't mix well. Compressed air, and manually cleaning the tracks is usually the way to go for faders.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-18-2015, 08:07 PM
Reticuli Reticuli is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 931
Soaking in alcohol and lots of manual cleaning with q-tips worked well. Then I gently layered the pole things and the tracks with 3-in-1. All faders work perfectly now, even the cross fader that was leaking badly on one side. At least now I know how to open up these D-type faders. I've previously used 3-in-1 and compressed air, but it turns out they're so easy to open and service that I won't be bothering with the air anymore. Thanks again!
__________________
The term "necroposting" was invented by a person with no social memory beyond a year. People with a similar hangup are those o.k. with the internet being transient vapor.

http://www.openfuelstandard.org/2011...pen-wager.html
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.0.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
2006 Wave Music


© Wave Entertainment Group, Inc.